So, I went to Telford IPMS Scale Model World a couple of weeks ago......wow, quite an eye opener. A few Eagles (Round 2, small ones 1/48 scale). Quite an inspiration as well. I ended up buying a couple of kits. Some of my favourite, shiny silver coloured jets that fought based old fashioned dog fighting tactics with unguided weapons.
I purchased some Vallejo gloss black primer and their Silver Darts paint kit.
I am revisiting my own design of 1/72 Star Wars models, the Tie Scimitar and Crawler Tank.
All small enough to work on in the house during the colder winter months.
​I am even talking to someone about kiting my Star Wars models, that will be interesting to follow up

Stunning turned aluminium engine bells produced by Mike Reader (check him out on the usual forums / Facebook). My resins are not to shabby really but aluminium is real and feels good.
​Great work.

Designed some ruins / scatter terrain in 28mm scale. A ruin of an old Star Gate and a Column Base; no real purpose but should look good to dress the table.

First resin castings from a few tile tools; a few lumps and bumps and air bubbles but these will be better on the second and third pull and the tools are clean.

20 Star Wars Death Star silicone rubber tile tools are ready to cast resin in to; let production begin!

Star Wars Death Star styled tiles in rubber ready to de-mould and replicate with resin.

I have picked up an old kit; an A&B Space 1999 Hawk. This will be fun, but a distraction from the 44" Eagle. The Hawk is in scale with a 22" Eagle; I guess this will go in to CAD and be the basis for a big Hawk to go with my Eagle.
The original bell and spare were both pretty much a solid block open topped casting; I didn't want to leave it like that.
This is a nice bit of work (the original); I have done a bit of research though and found out the filming model engine bell was the cap or lid from a household product bottle or something.

I have been on the Facebook War Gaming Trade and Sell page, see the comments for a deal on a bundle set of buildings here or give me a shout via the contact button.

I have put together a Sci-Fi Building set; suitable for 6mm scale gaming. Message me if interested, £24 with UK free post. Will post overseas.

Advertised on the Facebook page Wargame Trade and Sell 6mm - 10mm and managed to discuss making a set or 2 with Glenn from North Down War Gaming Centre.

A £30 set and an £18 Set. Both include UK post but quite happy to post overseas.

Get in touch via the contact page or via the Facebook gaming page.

Thanks

For sale? I don't know, I should but what price, where to post to, and what quality is acceptable? Testing the water, a set of two bunkers and two missile silo's.

Resin has pin holes; not bad, I easily deal with and hardly ever fill with anything but paint. Any feedback - what are these worth are they worth posting overseas (I can but the cost?)

For reference the squared paper is 5mm squares. See Datasheet link.

I look forward to any feedback.

Additional.....
Now on eBay

Had some spare silicone after doing a couple of tools for the Eagle Kit Bashing.
Open top resin casts are not bad, good details but some small pin holes. These should fill with bit of paint or if I have to, some putty or filler.

Some more effort on the Eagle this weekend.
Got some resins out of the tools put down a few months ago and they came out really good. So good I used resin rather than the kit parts, save them for another day, I don't know why?
I am happy with the walkways, and will get some paint on soon.

Julian

A note of caution; avoid standard Selotape and ensure everything (part / tools / hands / bench etc) is impeccably clean. RTV silicones react badly with many substances including the adhesive on the back of most Selotape type products; magic  tape is safe. Isopropanol Alcohol is a best bet to clean parts
but in this case the part was not my own and being unsure of the materials used strong washing liquid and water was trusted to ensure the silicone wouldn’t react.

The runners and risers need to be set out with some thought. Visualising the flow of a liquid though something that is currently solid but will become a cavity can be a challenge.

In this case the part is set fairly flat; the item will be cast without vacuum by my friend. Being flat will help lift air bubbles of the “A” face. The A face is in this case a face! The A face will often be the lower surfaces of the mould.

The runner; resin goes in here, is a piece of 6mm rod and the risers; air and resin flow out here, are some 2x2mm plastic off cuts.

The runner is often best placed at one side of the part and the risers
at the opposite side. This part being fairly flat in the mould gave three “high” spots; these would trap air and need risers. The feed in placed centrally between these risers makes good sense – imagine poring a thick liquid on to a flat surface, a circular puddle is formed. The runner at centre will flow out equally within reason to the risers. At centre the part has a boss and rib feature for connection to the body of the figure; these make good flow features and give further reasoning to the runner position.

If the part were to be vacuum cast; I would have lifted the chin and 
                                                           have used a single riser.

Hollow parts need care also; these might tend to float, a balance between pour outside and inside is necessary.

The issue with moving the pour point around is over-layering the silicone; trapping more air between layers and the need to degas further.

I always degas again, this can be more difficult as the tool boxing / shape might not be as tall as the first
degassing pot. It will be harder to achieve full vacuum without overflowing the box; the box is lower just to keep the runners and risers short.

When happy full cure is achieved; remove the box and trim the outside edges of the block. Remove the runner and risers.

Have a good look at the split line (that black edge has some meaning now). Check the tape is still attached to the master.

Initial cutting of tool should be a wavy (but smooth) single cut all the way around the four outer edges of the block. This cut should be one scalpel blade deep and can be (just about) seen in the photo.

The test run will clean the mould out fully. In this case no air bubbles on the A face and minimal on the B face – very good considering run with out vacuum assist.